Superfuture has a thread called “Fuck #menswear”. Why is anyone shocked by this? They’ve always been seen as the alternative to traditional menswear, so the news that they don’t like what’s being displayed at Pitti shouldn’t be surprising. And why are people taking comments on people’s clothing as attacks on their inner child? People need to make like this EPMD song and chill. It’s getting real emotional around these menswear parts.
UPDATE: I can’t bloody reply to replies on Tumblr, so here’s a short update. To answer some thoughts posed up in the notes by How to talk to…. people mocking other people’s outfits, regardless of their stature in a company, shouldn’t be a shock. It’s not like people have stopped mocking Thom Browne, despite him genuinely being one of the few truly influential designers. And I don’t actually want anyone to chill, I just prefer back and forth mockery over emotional talk about how so and so ‘is a genuine dude’.
Sometimes nothing happens in the world of fashion. It’s sad but true. Despite this, people still have to say something. Which is why blue is the most prevalent trend at the moment. Think about it - men never stop wearing blue. Calling it a trend (even under the term ‘blogger blue’) is like saying breathing is back. Or walking. Or (fill in with any activity you do all the time).
That said, there are still desirable clothes being made; here’s a short rundown of a few of my favourites. These are all from Paris fashion week - Milan fashion week is only worth visiting if a brand that sponsors your magazine is showing.
Jil Sander | I’m a big fan of this coat. And the jumper while you’re at it.
Missoni | If there was a message to be pulled from Paris fashion week, it’s that fashion isn’t giving up on getting men into double breasted suits.
Umit Benan | This jumper’s great.
Kolor | I want this jacket.
Kenzo | While I liked Kenzo’s line (and especially this jacket) I can’t help but feel that it was a little too Opening Ceremony.
Hermes | Ogliarch wear. I could do with with this jacket though. And while I’m here, read ‘Deluxe: How luxury lost its lustre’. You’ll gain a newfound appreciation for Hermes.
Louis Vuitton | It’s funny to see that LV are now the unofficial menswear bloggers favourite brand. Note to brands lacking in bro points - make more varsity jackets.
Raf Simons | I’d wear both the jumper and the coat.
I wrote about non-apologies for the Sabotage Times. Read the article (and a bunch of people missing the point in the comments section) here.
Roger Ebert reposted this amazing article he did back in 1979. Read it.
Interviewed tailor Charlie Allen for Selectism go read it. Seriously, if you’re into England football, Savile Row, tailoring in general, Arsenal, Prince (yes, the purple one), Terence Trent D’Arby or Annie Lennox, you’ll enjoy this piece. Either click on the picture or on the ‘go read it’ to, um, go read it.
Found this book, a compilation of Esquire’s earlier years, at a second hand magazine store for £5. Best purchase I’ve made in a long time.
You want to know why? Look at this list of fiction writers.
Need more names? Ok.
I found that the publisher of Jackie magazine (of Rihanna “ultimate niggabitch” infamy) un-apologized. Not only that, they actually had the nerve to say they won’t be printing a retraction because ‘they won’t be silenced’. Seriously.
David Byrne (he of Talking Heads fame) talks about the idea of collective creation.